Boot ob shoe and method oxi making sake



May 26, 1931. c. H. DANIELs BOOT OR SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed 001;. 10 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet l May 26, 1931. c. H. DANIELS 1,806,673

BOOT OR SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Oct. lO, 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 l?? ver: for

. Patented May' 26, 1931 PATENT OFFICE CLAUDE EYDANIELS, OF NEWTON CENTER, MASSACHUSETTS BOOT R SHOE AND METHOD 0F MAKING SAICE Application led October 10, 1930. Serial No. 487,822.

My present invention relates to boots and shoes, and includes a novel method of manufacturing same, the present invention being an improvement on the invention illustrated,

ydescribed and claimed in my prior Patent,

No. 1,772,340, datedAugust 5, 1930.

Briefly stated, the essence of my invention consists in perforating a plurality of rows of apertures through predetermined portions of shoe upper materials, and thereafter weaving strips separate from the upper material through predetermined rows of apertures. The word aperture as utilized in the present application signifies a hole, as distinguished from a slot or a slit. By the utilization of apertures, rather than slits, I am enabled to create innumerable designs, patterns, and ornamentations, which would not be capable of achievement withv mere slits. The presence of the/apertures enables the weaving or threading of a plurality of the separate strips through a single aperture, to thus increase the capacity for variations of designs possible'in my novel shoe.

preferably utilize two upper pieces, such as a vamp and vamp lining, both ofr which are preferably preformed of identical size. Leather is preferably utilized as the outer vamp piece, and for the lining I utilize a sheet of material of greater toughness and less stretch than the outside vamp piece. I then coat the entire contacting face of either one or both of said vamp pieces, and subject the same to a pressure operation, which will eifectually unite the two vamp pieces into a substantially integral vamp.` I preferably,

Incarrying out the present invention Iv toughness and little stretch, said lining, nevertheless, being of desired iiexibility. Thus, although the vamp is perforated vthrou hout its entire extent, it may be ,pulle over and lasted without materially distorting the upper materials or the perforations or apertures. This lack of distortion is also due to the fact that the individual perforations are of small individual size, and their aggregate area will, therefore, not materially weaken the vamp or upper materials.

As the next step in my novel process I thereof during wear as well as during the lasting and operations. I

I may vary the process above briefly described by perforating merely the outside vamp-piece, weaving the same in the manner above mentioned, and then adhesively uniting a vamp lining to the woven outside vamp piece, applying stitching around the marginal other shoe manufacturing edge of the united vamp sections to.secure the woven strips in place as above described. For many types of design this-latter method will be equally satisfactory, 'and thesame is Within the scope of the present invention, as will be readily understood. j

After the operations just described, the completion of the shoe` is' preferably carried out inthe manner illustrated, described,jand

claimed in my said prior patent, and reference ishereby made to said patent.

In the present shoe, I may inserta toe stiifenerhbetween the two vamp layers, subljecting said toe stitfener to the same steps asabove outlined, and weaving the toe portion of the vamp in the same manner as the balance thereof. f

I believe that the steps of the process of shoe manufacture above briefly outlined are novel, as well as the resulting shoe constructed thereby, and have, therefore, claimed the same in this application.

The above and other objects and features of the invention, details of construction, and advantages, will be hereinafter more fully pointed out, described and claimed.

Referring to the drawings, illustrating a preferred embodiment of the present invention,

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the two Vamp pieces assembled and coated, with one layer turned back to illustrate the position of the toe stiifener;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the united vamp during-the pressure operation;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary longitudinal sectional view illustrating the perforating op- Vlayer 1. The Contactin eration;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the perforated vamp, illustrating also the method of weaving the separate fstrips and the stitching thereof;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged cross sectional view on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is an enlarged cross sectional view on the line 6 6 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the completed shoe;

Fig. 8 is a plan view of the modied vamp structure above described; and

Fig. 9 is an enlarged cross sectional view on the line 9-9'of Fig. 8. l

Referring now to the drawings, for a particular description of the invention, and the method ofcarrying out the same, my novel vamp comprises two layers of material,

1 and 2, these layers being preferably cut to identical size before uniting. The layer 1 ispreferably of leather, although it is within the purview of my invention to utilize other materials if desired. The layer 2 is preferably of av material diiferent from the layer 1. There are several well known textile materials suitable for the lining layer 2, said materials being much tougher and less elastic than the leather utilized in the out-side vamp faces of the layers 1 and 2 are then'coate with a suitable adhesive, as at 3, 3, either pne or both of said surfaces being thus treated.

If desired, also 'a layer llsmayk be inserted between the two ayers 1 and 2 at -their toe portion, this layer -4 heingofa suitable material to provide a t'oe stifener in the completed shoe. The surfaces of this stiffener ylayer 4 may be coated with a suitable adhesive, as illustrated at 5, if desired, although the adhesive 3 on the layers 1 or 2'may be sufficient for this purpose.

the layers 1, 2 and 4, or the layers l and 2, `.if the stiffener layer 4 is not utilized.'

Subsequent to the pressing operation I then' subject the united vamp materials to a perforating operation, the die 7 operating in conjunction with the anvil 8 to perforate a mass of fine apertures or perforations 9 completely throu h the united vamp materials, as

well as throug the stiii'ener layer 4. As clearly illustrated in Fig. 4, this mass of perforations extends over the entire area ofthe vamp materials, even to the edges thereof.

As the next step in my novel processI then weave strips 30 through predetermined rows of apertures 9, these apertures permitting the passing therethrough of a plurality of, said strips at predetermined points, as

illustrated at 31, without distortion of the upper materials. As clearly illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6, the strips 30 are woven completely through both the layers 1 and 2.

The design illustrated in Fig. 4 is for illustrative purposes only, as it will be appreciated and understood that an infinite variation of designs is possible when utilizing the perforated vamp or upper material as a base.

After all the desired strips have been woven, I apply a row of stitching 32 around the peripheral margin ofthe layers 1 and 2, with the exception of the throat portion thereof, as

`none of the strips 30 extend into the throat material, and the projecting ends of said strips, as illustrated in dotted lines at 33, may then be severed flush with the edge of the upper material, although this severing operation may take dplace before the lstitching 32 is applled, if esired.

A collar 10 is then-united to the vamp along the entire throat margin 'thereof by a single row of stitching 11. This collar is of sufiicient width so that a portion thereof will extend beyond the throat margin, as clearly illustrated in Fig. y5.

As the next step, the outside quarter l2` is united to the collar 10 by a row of stitching 13, subsequent to which the quarter lining 14 is united to the vamp layers 1 and 2, and collar 10, and,.throughout a' ortion of its extentto the outside quarter ayer 12, by a row of stitching l5, this stitching extending through the quarter lining14, outside quarter. 12, vamp layers l and 2, and collar 10, and at the point illustrated by the numeral 34, the stitching passes through the strip 16 of the quarter lining, vamp layers v1 and 2, andcollar 10.

Subsequent thereto, a beading 17 is affiXed to the free edge of the collar 10 by a row of stitching 18, another row of stitching 19 uniting the quarter lining 14 and itsstrip 16 to the collar 10 and beading 17. Thereafter the thus assembled upper materials will be assembled on a last, and completed in any desired manner, whether welt or McKay, the outsole 2O and heel 21 being applied in the usual manner.

The completed shoe manufactured according to this process will be light, and yet strong and durable. Also, because of the perforation of the entire vamp, thorough ventilation will be provided, as well as admitting the sunlight directly to the foot of the wearer.

Because of the combination of the two layers 1 and 2 of the vamp materials, the said vamp will not be distorted during pulling over or lasting, the individual size of the per- Vforations 9 being sovsmall that the aggregate thereof has no material weaking effect on the vamp. The vamp, at the toe portion is still further strengthened by the presence of the stiffener layer 4, which will also assist in retaining the shape of the shoe during Wear.

The presence of the strips30 further increases the strength of the upper material, as will be readily understood.

In Figs. 8 and 9 I have illustrated a slight modification, wherein the outer vamp piece 35 is perforated in the same manner as illustrated in Fig. 4, whereupon strips 36 are woven therethrough. From a glance at Fig. 8 it will be instantly apparent that the strip designated as 36 is angled or bent at 37, and is then woven through another row of apertures 38, proceeding to the aperture of the layer 35 at an angle to the original line of direction of the strip 36.

The design shown in Fig. 8 is merely illustrative of the vast range of design features capable of achievement in my novel shoe and by my novel process.

The apertures 38 permit of the bending of the strips 36 without distortion of the upper materials, and subsequent to the weaving the lining layer 39 is adhesively secured to the Woven layer 35, a toe stiffener 40 being interposed therebetween if desired. Thereupon a row of stitching 41 is applied through the woven layer 35 and lining 39, although this stitching operation may be performed before application of the lining 39, if desired. The collar 10 is applied by stitching 11 in the same manner as illustrated in Fig. 4. A vamp or'other shoe upper portion constructed according to this phase of my invention is rugged, strong, and durable, and will not be distorted by any of the steps of shoe manufacture.

While I have necessarily described my present invention somewhat in detail, it `will be appreciated that I may vary the size, shape,

and arrangement of parts Within reasonably Wide limits without departing from the spirit of the invention.

My invention is further described and defined in the form of claims as follows:

1. The improved process of shoe manufacture, which includes the steps of adhesively uniting a vamp and vamp lining, simultane ously perforating a plurality of apertures completely through both said vamp and said vamp lining, and weaving strips separate from said layers through predetermined apertures of both the vamp and the vamp lining, whereby the latter are positively held together independently of the adhesive.

2. The improved process of boot or shoe manufacture which includes the steps of superimposing an upper section and lining therefor one upon the other, simultaneously perforating alined openings completely through said upper section and lining, and lweaving strips separate from said upper sectionand lining through predetermined openings of both the upper section and the lining to positively secure the upper section and lining together.

3. The improved method of boot or' shoe manufacture which includes the steps of superimposing a vamp and a toe stiifener one upon the other, forming alined openings through said vamp and said toe stiifener, and weaving strips through said openings to positively secure the vamp and the toe stiifener together.

4. The improved process of boot or shoe manufacture which includes the steps of arranging a vamp, a toe stiifener and a vamp lining inl superimposed relation, forming alined openings through said vamp, toe stiffener and vamp lining, and weaving strips through said openings to positively secure the vamp, the toe stilfener and the vamp lining together. i

5. A boot or shoe including a vamp and a toe stifener having alined openings formed therethrough, and strips woven through said openings serving to positively secure the vamp and the toe stiffener together.

6. A boot or shoe including a vamp, a toe I have signed my 

